Below are the faults most commonly brought to the service. Only those checks that you can safely carry out yourself without opening the housing are described. Before any check, disconnect the machine from the mains (pull out the plug) and wait at least a few minutes. Inside there is high voltage and large capacitors that can hold a charge, so do not open the housing in any case.
01from €35
The welding machine won’t start
WhyMost often the cause is the power cable or plug, a blown fuse, a faulty power switch circuit, or a broken-down power section on the board. After an overload, sometimes only the protective lockout remains.
Check it yourselfTry another socket and check whether the circuit breaker at home has tripped. Inspect the power cable only after pulling the plug out of the socket: look for wear or breaks. Do not use an extension cord with thin wires.
What we doWe check the power circuit, the input rectifier and the capacitors, and replace the faulty components or the cable.
02from 45 €
The electric arc won’t strike
WhyPoor earth contact, a worn electrode holder or torch, a damaged cable, or a faulty power module. The machine may indicate that it is working, but it does not deliver current to the workpiece.
Check it yourselfBefore checking, disconnect the machine from the mains. Clean the metal under the earth clamp until it is shiny, check that the clamp is not broken, and try a different electrode. If you are working with MIG, replace a worn contact tip – again with the machine disconnected from the mains.
What we doWe measure the output voltage, check the power transistors (IGBT/MOSFET), diodes and cable connections, and replace faulty parts.
03from 25 €
The machine shuts off during welding or overheats
WhyThe fan is not working, the air channels are clogged with dust and fine metal shavings, or the thermal paste on the power modules has aged. When working for a long time and at the limit, the protection switches the machine off and the indicator light shows overheating.
Check it yourselfLet the machine cool down and then see whether the fan spins. With the machine disconnected from the mains, you can clean the openings on the outside with a dry brush. Do not open the housing.
What we doWe clean the dust from the inside, replace the fan, renew the thermal paste and check the temperature sensors.
04from €50
Unstable welding arc, current fluctuates
WhyWorn capacitors, a floating earth contact, or a fault in the control board or current regulator. In this case the weld jumps, the machine crackles and the electrode sticks.
Check it yourselfBefore checking, disconnect the machine from the mains and make sure the cable connections are tightened firmly. Also make sure the electrode is not damp. If the problem persists with a different electrode and on a different workpiece, the machine itself is most likely at fault.
What we doWe check the control board, the potentiometer and the filter capacitors, replace faulty components and test the machine under load.
05from €30
MIG welder not feeding wire
WhyWorn feed rollers, a clogged wire liner in the torch or one that does not match the wire diameter, or a damaged motor or motor control. The wire often tangles into a ball near the rollers.
Check it yourselfUnplug the machine from the mains. Check that the roller groove matches the wire diameter, that the pressure is not too tight and that the wire liner is not clogged. Replace the contact tip.
What we doWe repair or replace the feed mechanism and the motor, and clean and replace the wire liner.
06from 25 €
No gas flow or porous weld
WhyA leaking hose or connector, a faulty solenoid valve, a clogged torch nozzle, insufficient gas flow or an empty cylinder. A porous weld usually indicates that not all of the gas is reaching the arc.
Check it yourselfUnplug the machine from the mains and check that there is gas in the cylinder, that the regulator is open and that the hose is not cracked. Look for leaks carefully: apply soapy water to the connections – bubbles will reveal a leak. Replace hoses or connectors only after closing the gas cylinder.
What we doWe check the valve and hoses, replace faulty parts and test that the gas supply works properly.
07from 45 €
Blows the fuse, smell of burning
WhyA short circuit in the power section, blown transistors or rectifier, or moisture inside the housing. A burning smell or smoke means the machine must not be switched on again.
Check it yourselfUnplug the machine from the mains immediately and do not try to switch it on again. Do not look inside the housing or open it – this is dangerous because of the voltage and a possible fire.
What we doWe open the housing, inspect the burnt areas, replace blown transistors, diodes and resistors, and repair the tracks.
08from 20 €
Damaged torch, cable or earth clamp
WhyInsulation softened by overheating, broken wires near the handle, burnt-out clamps and worn connectors. As a result, the cable heats up and the arc does not strike on the first try.
Check it yourselfUnplug the machine from the mains and inspect the insulation: look for tears and blackened areas near the connectors. Such a cable is definitely worth replacing, as it can cause burns or an electric shock.
What we doWe replace or renew cables, the torch handle, connectors and clamps.
09from 50 €
Display or controls not working, or an error is shown
WhyA faulty control panel, a worn potentiometer, damaged board tracks, or another fault that causes the machine to display a protection error.
Check it yourselfUnplug the machine from the mains, wait a minute and switch it on again. If the error keeps recurring, write down its code or blinking sequence.
What we doWe diagnose the control board and replace controls, sensors and faulty components.
